Itsoseng lies in the North West province of South Africa, between Lichtenburg and Mafikeng, the provincial capital, near the border with Botswana. It was established during Apartheid, in the 1960s, on land that used to be a farm, as a township for African blacks (“Colored” was a separate designation). The population of about 20,000 is still 99% Black African, with a smattering of Asians and coloreds. As far as I know, nobody of purely European ancestry lives in the township.
The people we met, like almost everyone in the town, are Tswana. They speak Tswana, English, and Africans. They are comfortably multi-lingual, and listen to a radio station where the disk jockey would frequently switch from one language to an another.
The township looks run down. Many of the residential streets are not paved, but even the paved streets are…
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